 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 Mark's Blog |
 |
|
Introduction to alpine mountaineering | Ascent of Mont-Blanc | Climbing the Matterhorn | Equipment list
An introduction to alpine mountaineering.
For someone who has never climbed in the Alps the following programme works well. There is an assumption that you are a reasonably fit, keen hill and mountain walker, but with no or very little experience of ropes or rock climbing.
The aim of our time together is to provide you with the necessary skills to ascend a variety of alpine peaks in safety.
Below is a suggested programme.
- Day 1
Introduction to the use of ice axe & crampons within the context of the Alps. These are fundamental skills that will allow you to move with confidence over a variety of terrain. This day will take place on the Mer de Glace glacier. - Day2
An ascent of the Aiguille du Crochue. This is a marvellous rocky scramble so typical of the Alps. During the climb we will examine the use of the rope to safeguard our progress. This type of scrambling is the border with simple rock climbing. - Day 3
We will take the Aiguille du Midi cable-car to its summit which is one of the highest in the world. From there we will climb the Cosmiques Spur. In order to climb this route we will be using the skills we have gained in the previous two days. - Day 4
Walk up to a mountain hut. In the afternoon we will look at the various skills required for crevasse rescue. You will extract someone from a real crevasse. - Day 5
The hut guardian will wake us at 4 am. After breakfast we will cross the glacier and climb the Aiguille du Tour. This is a major alpine peak, which involves some scrambling near its summit. The views are fantastic and given clear weather you will clearly see the Matterhorn.
It is perfectly possible for any reasonably fit person to climb Mont-Blanc with no previous alpine experience providing they undergo some training and are accompanied by a High Mountain Guide. However, anyone contemplating this trip should read this.
Below is a suggested plan of action that offers the best possible chance of climbing Mont-Blanc, the highest mountain in western Europe. The most suitable time to make an attempt is from the middle of June until the beginning of October, although there is always going to be an element of luck with the weather.
The key to success is to make sure that you are well acclimatised. Attempting Mont-Blanc without spending enough time training and becoming acclimatised is risking eventual disappointment.
The most popular route and the one that offers the best chance of success is the ascent via the Gouter Hut. This is because the hut is very high and therefore gives you a shorter distance to climb on the summit day.
The Itinerary:
- Day 1
We will take the mountain railway to the Mer de Glace. Once on the glacier we will learn how to use an ice axe & crampons in the context of alpine travel. - Day 2
We will make a long approach over various glaciers arriving at an alpine hut where we will spend the night. - Day 3
We will make an early start and climb a peak with some simple scrambling. This will be good practice for the climb to the Gouter Hut the next day. From the summit we will make our way back to the valley where we will spend the night. - Day 4
Climb to the Gouter Hut. This is quite a tough day and takes between 4 and 6 hours. The Gouter hut is the highest in the Mont-Blanc range. - Day 5
Breakfast is at two o'clock in the morning! In good conditions we will be on the top of Mont-Blanc in 5 hours. - Day 6
This is our spare day, which can be slotted into the programme in case of bad weather or if further acclimatisation is required.
The Matterhorn is one of the most famous mountains in the world. Climbers and non-climbers alike dream of reaching its summit. An ascent of the Matterhorn is possible for any reasonably fit person providing the following criteria are met:
The
weather must be good and the mountain in a safe condition for the climb. The snow
must have cleared from the ridge and the rocks must be free of ice and virglass.
The most suitable time of the year to attempt an ascent is between the middle
of July and the middle of September. Nevertheless during some seasons the correct
conditions just do not materialise for a safe ascent. In this case you should
be prepared to change your aspirations to another mountain. Do not contemplate
the Matterhorn unless you are prepared to accept this possibility of disappointment.
You must have a good head for heights. Parts of the climb especially in the top
two-thirds are very exposed. It most definitely is not the place to find yourself
if you suffer from vertigo.
The day we climb the Matterhorn will be
a long one. The ascent will take around five hours. The feeling of elation on
the summit may well be influenced by the realisation that we have to descend by
exactly the same route. This always seems to take longer!
Outlined below
is an example of a six day itinerary which would be good training for an attempt
on the Matterhorn. However, in reality there is a considerable amount of discussion
between the the guide and the client prior to meeting so that the training can
match the client's exact needs and take into consideration the prevailing climbing
conditions.
- Day 1
The most effective way of becoming acclimatised is to sleep in mountain huts. We will climb to the Rotehorn Hut, which is high above Zermatt. - Day 2
Ascent of the Trifthorn. This is an ideal introduction to the type of climbing found on the Matterhorn. - Day 3
Ascent of the Wellenkuppe. This is the traditional mountain that alpinists climb before they attempt the Matterhorn; consequently it is a good confidence builder. - Day
4
After our final checks to our gear we will set off to the Hornli Hut ready for the next day. - Day 5
Breakfast at 4am. The ascent of the Matterhorn via the Hornli Ridge. - Day 6
Spare day. We will slot this into the programme in case of bad weather.