Dawn on the Frontier: the Southeast Ridge of Mont Maudit, September 2010

Charles Sherwood Thursday, September 2, 2010 I sat at breakfast in the Eden Hotel, just outside Chamonix on the road to Argentiere, inspecting the weather through the window.  After a turbulent start to the week, things looked stable now and set fair for the next few days.  Not that the prior disturbance had curtailed us …

Beating the Crowds on the Haute Route

The High Level Route, otherwise known as the Haute Route is possibly the most famous ski tour in the world. It attracts people from all over the world and anyone who is lucky enough to complete the journey from Chamonix to Zermatt will enjoy the memory for the rest of their lives. This the ultimate …

“And now let’s climb Mont Blanc”: the north face of the Aiguille de Peuterey Blanche

Charles Sherwood The most difficult of all the 4000-m summits in the Alps is the Aiguille de Peuterey Blanche. On August 29, 2008, Mark Seaton & client Charles Sherwood completed the ascent. This is Sherwood’s account of the adventure. Tuesday, August 26, 2008 It was 10.30am in the morning as Mark and I returned to …

“Oh, are you still here?” A bagman’s view of the Eigerwand

Charles Sherwood September 11, 2007: Despite the fact that none of the routes up the mountain were actually “open”, Mark Seaton & Charles Sherwood climbed the notorious North Face of the Eiger, becoming only the second British guided party to do so (Kenton Cool and his client, sir Ranulph Fiennes, accomplished the feat just six …

The Dent Blanche, and other decisions

When I reflect on the most satisfying climbs I have completed as a Mountain Guide, it is neither the hardest nor the highest that come to mind. Instead I often think of the climbs that have had that extra something. Something where the outcome was less than certain. This is not to say hazardous, but …